Riva style Navigation light and cleat

A few pictures of the brightwork on the boat deck .

 Riva style Bow light

 Bow fairlead

Bow cleat

Boat canopy

                                                              

The canopy is double skinned with the outer layer being a mushroom coloured stronger pvc canvas and the inner being a lighter pvc coated blue to match the colour of the seating .

picture to left shows a side view of the open canopy without side and rear windows atached
Below shows the canopy in its collapsed form neatly fitting behind the rear seat.

Nice shot of the open canopy from the rear with straps to hold the canopy open.

This shot shows the two layers being clamped in position ready for template making of the clear pvc windows.

Side windows are held in place with velcro and are easily detatched and stowed away .

Bilge pump

 The Bilge pump and automatic float switch are sited at the stern of the boat behind the battery because this is the lowest point
It is switched from a panel switch under the dashboard that has a manual and automatic function .

This picture shows the bilge pump exit through the transom .

Boat horn

 Twin stainless steel electric boat horn mounted underneath the bow close to the dashboard  .

Rubber mounted brackets screwed to the sub deck framework .  Nice and load , opperated from a horn button mounted to the left of the Airguide compass . Horn is wired via a regulator as it has a large electrical load .

Guide-ons

Cardboard template for Guide on trailer brackets. these will be welded up from Galvanized box section and clamped to trailer frames using U bolts .  Then the guide on arms will just slot in and out of them when i need them .

 

 

 

 

Painter line

The painter line is left atached

 to the bow eye whilst the boat is under power and tied to a cleat that is readily acessable from the pilots seated position . ( Tied with a simple slip knot for quick release)  This can be untied and thrown to someone ashore whilst docking or taken in hand by the pilot and tied to a pontoon or pilon if he should be alone .

Quick release clip is used at the bow end ,and the rope i use is 10mm polyester floating rope . One important point is that the rope should not be long enough to reach the propellor should it be dropped in the water or come loose from its cleat whilst underway.

The finished painter line with monkey fist knot on the end for added weight when throwing .

boat Cover

Making of a cover to protect the wood from harmfull uv rays and the extreme temperature changes we experience here on the south coast of the uk.

I wanted a fitted cover and could only find loose drawstring covers on the web so set about making my own from some uv stable vinyl that i perchased online.

 

 I figured that the only way to get a true fit was to template from the actual fabric laid directly over the hull. After cutting the various panels to shape adding on seam allowances i taped the panels onto the hull to check the fit. I used french seams on all joints for extra strength and waterproof qualities.  

Joines were made at midships to keep the cover looking tidy and minimize the number of joints

All Cleats and fairleads were cut out and pockets of fabric were made for them.

Dashboard

I have decided to remodel the dashboard as i was haveing difficulty in getting the airguide gauges to work properely and i wasn't happy with the mismatch in styles.
Picture to the right shows a cardboard template that
i designed in an Art Deco style based on the chrysler tower in New York.


The style should tie in well with the boats name "VOGUE"                                                                                           

 

 

 

Carried template trough past the steering wheel to balance the look.

I couldn't get a clear feeling for how the finished dashboard might look so sat down for the evening and drew out the pattern of the individual gauges onto the cardboard template.

I am happy with the overall look and have placed orders for the KUS white faced gauges and marine grade stainless steel for the dash panel.

Stabilizer/steering Fins

Hi, its been a while since my last update so i have alot of new detail to add as i have been busy working on VOGUE for the new summer season.
After trawling through lots of pictures on Google i noticed that quite a few old wooden speed boats had fins attatched to the hull along or just above the plimsole line, with further investigation i discovered that they were to aid in steering under hard turns   ie.. they dig in to the water and stop the boat from slipping sideways. They also improve the time in which it takes to get on plane as they stop the stern from sinking as much under acceleration .

 I found some old oak in the woodstore that was left over from my Grandmothers wardrobe (Used some of it in the 1970s to make a skateboard deck) and scribed it to the hull before cutting and sanding to make a pleasing shape. Picture to right shows the trial fitting supported with bungee straps



Chrome trim strips were cut and polished and designed to offer extra support to the fins












 Fins were fixed to the hull with 7 screw bolts each side and the joint and holes were sealed with sikaflex (brown)

This picture shows the fins drying off  after the final of ten coats of hempel varnish laid over a base of Q19.

 

 I reinforced the interior of the hull with extra Mahogany slats and fixed them in place with epoxy resin glue mix and further laminations of carbon fiber . The screwbolts came through this and were topped off with large stainless flat washers to spread the load and nyloc nuts .



The finished fin in all of its glory !

 Front view

Side view

Rear view.